Mornings on a Russian long distance train are interesting. There is a small bathroom at the end of each car, cleaned by the train attendant periodically, but still slightly stinky---very similar to what you get on an airplane. Around sunrise, people begin to stir, and then queue up for the bathroom in the very narrow hallway. I usually get my business done earlier and had done so this time as well. Fellas line up shirtless with a train provided small white towel----I think there is some kind of sponge bath thing going on. Most people put there regular clothes on, eschewing the evening track suits/loungewear. If you are out in the passageway at this time, it is impossible not to get rubbed on by the attendant(providnik or providnitza) as he/she goes by with tea for everyone as well as anyone else moving in the hallway. Personal space is not a big deal in Russia---everyone lives in apartments with generations of family----and this closeness on the train doesn't phase anyone---often people put their hand on your waist as they go by. It is not at all intended to be creepy. In fact, of anywhere I've been, Russian men are the least creepy. There is very little catcalling, overt ogling, or general inappropriateness as far as I can tell. Still, I make myself very skinny in the hallway. The few women in my car quickly get themselves back into high fashion pretty quickly. By 7am things calm down and most folks are up in the passageway watching the approach into Saratov.
Upon arrival, Valia from the office informs me that they'd all been waiting for me yesterday at 11am, when I was originally supposed to arrive. I'd sent several emails to everyone from Dulles, Brussels, and Frankfurt airports informing of my weather delay. Most of them having yahoo email accounts which I suppose surprisingly determined that a NOVA email is dangerous. Several notices, upon inspection, were in my sent box informing me of this. I'd gotten a facebook message from Natalia in my Moscow hotel that sounded as if they had not gotten this info, and this was confirmed by Valia. My friend Stepan knew about the change because we talk on FB and he certainly didn't think he needed to inform anyone. He by the way showed up a bit late at the depot on Thursday morning, missing me...as Valia quickly found our driver and proceeded to drop me at my accommodations in the college dorms. I was to get the "directors VIP room" with a small fridge, single bed, small TV, and a private bathroom/shower. Russian dorms are like 1950s America. There is security at the door. Keys are kept at the desk. There is an 11pm curfew!!A fellow even knocks on your door around 10pm to see if everything is "Narmal". I was a little tentative about all this beforehand, but it turns out that this is just fine for me and I think I'll stay here. Stepan and his family offered me a small apartment they own in Engels across the river----very kind of them---but it would mean a bus ride whereas I can walk to the school from the dorm(not an easy walk...I'd say 2.5 miles, but I like walking, even on 4 inches of ice)....besides that, I don't think I'm going to stay out late very much.
After I deposit my bags in my new accommodations, Stepan arrives and invites me to his parent's home for breakfast. They live on a slight hill west of the city center(Stepan has a car and motorcycle) with a beautiful home and small indoor swimming pool/banya!!!!(pics in this blog from last year). Here I meet again his Dad Dmitri, Mom Anna, and little brothers Igor and Arhip. Charming family---and now dear friends. I am seated soon and fed delicious porridge with mushrooms, small meat filled turnovers, and "house pizza" as well as tea. My appetite is not great with all the travel but the food is very good. Afterwards, Stepan takes me upstairs to do some emailing and such but soon we are back on the road to deliver me back. He picks up a classmate on the way, a young woman, Alina(in my classes last spring), because they are competing in a "negotiation" competition later that morning. I have to teach this day as well---now the day of my arrival---and I need to wind down/up for my 3:20pm class on International Entrepreneurship. Can't sleep so I fuss around emailing etc until about 1pm whereupon I begin the cold 50 minute hike to school. The ice is a nightmare, glassy, uneven, melting in spots, a real challenge....but to this date I have not crashed and burned.(last year I fell probably 10 times in 4 months)
Upon arrival, Valia from the office informs me that they'd all been waiting for me yesterday at 11am, when I was originally supposed to arrive. I'd sent several emails to everyone from Dulles, Brussels, and Frankfurt airports informing of my weather delay. Most of them having yahoo email accounts which I suppose surprisingly determined that a NOVA email is dangerous. Several notices, upon inspection, were in my sent box informing me of this. I'd gotten a facebook message from Natalia in my Moscow hotel that sounded as if they had not gotten this info, and this was confirmed by Valia. My friend Stepan knew about the change because we talk on FB and he certainly didn't think he needed to inform anyone. He by the way showed up a bit late at the depot on Thursday morning, missing me...as Valia quickly found our driver and proceeded to drop me at my accommodations in the college dorms. I was to get the "directors VIP room" with a small fridge, single bed, small TV, and a private bathroom/shower. Russian dorms are like 1950s America. There is security at the door. Keys are kept at the desk. There is an 11pm curfew!!A fellow even knocks on your door around 10pm to see if everything is "Narmal". I was a little tentative about all this beforehand, but it turns out that this is just fine for me and I think I'll stay here. Stepan and his family offered me a small apartment they own in Engels across the river----very kind of them---but it would mean a bus ride whereas I can walk to the school from the dorm(not an easy walk...I'd say 2.5 miles, but I like walking, even on 4 inches of ice)....besides that, I don't think I'm going to stay out late very much.
After I deposit my bags in my new accommodations, Stepan arrives and invites me to his parent's home for breakfast. They live on a slight hill west of the city center(Stepan has a car and motorcycle) with a beautiful home and small indoor swimming pool/banya!!!!(pics in this blog from last year). Here I meet again his Dad Dmitri, Mom Anna, and little brothers Igor and Arhip. Charming family---and now dear friends. I am seated soon and fed delicious porridge with mushrooms, small meat filled turnovers, and "house pizza" as well as tea. My appetite is not great with all the travel but the food is very good. Afterwards, Stepan takes me upstairs to do some emailing and such but soon we are back on the road to deliver me back. He picks up a classmate on the way, a young woman, Alina(in my classes last spring), because they are competing in a "negotiation" competition later that morning. I have to teach this day as well---now the day of my arrival---and I need to wind down/up for my 3:20pm class on International Entrepreneurship. Can't sleep so I fuss around emailing etc until about 1pm whereupon I begin the cold 50 minute hike to school. The ice is a nightmare, glassy, uneven, melting in spots, a real challenge....but to this date I have not crashed and burned.(last year I fell probably 10 times in 4 months)
