Thursday, June 16, 2016

Ziguinchor

It was the birthday of my twin sisters yesterday----Marya and Teresita Corrigan. Both who are my inspiration---both who entered the world of teaching before I and who are an immense source of pride for me. As we begin to explore Fallou Ngom's hometown of Ziguinchor, Casamance and watch the respect and love his family affords him, I cannot help but reflect upon my fortune to have a family such as mine.

The day of June 15 began with a whirlwind tour of Fallou's neighborhood. We pull up to a compound on a dusty street. There are women sitting outside in the shade. Men in beautiful, colorful clothing seem to be expecting us. These are the brothers, uncles, nephews, and friends of Fallou. Already a force of personality, he seems to simply expand with pride for his "hood". There is a bit of commotion in the shade off to the right of our vans and it is his mother. Regal, in a yellow dress, beaming, she greets each one of about 20 of us, graciously, kindly, energetically. You can tell she is so proud of him. He has mentioned previously that SHE, of all people is responsible for his success. That he, quite a rebel in his day, simply could not bear to disappoint her---that his success in the French Baccalaureate system----a post high school exam where you must place in the top 10% to get into college---was due to wanting to please her. He didn't want her to cry. He did excel, obviously.

The family is large. We are ushered into the compound. As he moves up the ladder at Boston University, his remittances certainly assist the large group. We sit in a room with couches and he tells stories about stealing mangoes, trespassing at the airport. he talks about the Muslim neighbors---his own family was Muslim, the Catholic Creoles from Guinea Bissau across the way, the Mmadinka family whose father was the only one in the area with the standing to challenge his own Seereer father. We meet his father's second wife---whose sons are also his brothers of course. He calls her his auntie. A man from the neighborhood who served as a mentor and example of success sits beaming. His brother's wives are all around with children of their own. One of his brothers must run to proctor and exam. We move to other compounds. Hugs from neighbors. fast, animated, excited conversation. We are a group of curiosities but people can't be more gracious. Photos soon.

Sunrise, Ziguinchor

 

 

 

Ziguinchor from the plane.

The haze is from clearing fires that precede the rainy season. It is very humid here. The rains are coming. This town is a bit more mellow that previous destinations here. Went shopping yesterday. Got some stuff. Big accomplishment for me.

 

 

Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Hotel view. Casamance Delta, Ziguinchor

 

 

 

We arrived in the southern Senegalese city of Ziguinchor yesterday evening after a quick 35 minute flight from Dakar. This region is called Casamance and has some recent history of separatism due to perceived government neglect---partly due to the fact that this part of Senegal is physically separated from the rest by The Gambia---a whole different country that pokes into Senegal from the sea---making land travel to here difficult and bureaucratic. This is the hometown of one of our seminar leaders, Dr. Fallou Ngom. It is very interesting to watch him connect with childhood friends and colleagues. He is energized. The hotel is beautiful, probably the nicest yet. The town is sleepy and less frenetic and we have a little free time while here---something that is very welcome.

 

 

Sunset; Ziguinchor; Casamance, Senegal

The fishing boats in the photo tie up and anchor at night. Their occupants set up blinking colored lights---there is some kind of party out there as we eat dinner near the docks---lots of laughter. I think they may sleep on their boats. Things are very peaceful here.

 

 

Relief

I was able to talk to my wife Janet last night after being unable to do for the last 3 days. Wi-Fi in Africa is quite spotty and Skype has been particularly aggravating---acting as if I am an unknown entity and not allowing a log-in at all. These "vacations", as they are sometimes referred to by some of those with whom I toil, are not easy. It is especially tough on those we love who are left behind to continue the ordinary yet essential machinations of life---mowing lawns, cooking for one, dog walks---all while feeling quite alone. I am grateful for who loves and supports me during these periods. Sometimes the ache is almost unbearable for me. Eight days left now on what is an extraordinary but sometimes exhausting  experience. I can't wait to see her and give her the biggest hug imaginable.