Shopping Sunday May 29

Went for a bit of shopping today with Ablei and a few members of our group. Ablei(sp?) is an independent linguist consultant who is doing some work with the WARC(West African Research Center). He speaks 5 languages---among others, French, English, Wolof, Portuguese. He works very hard for several different organizations, translating etc. Several people wanted to visit a fabric and clothing market near our hotel in Plateau. This is all housed in a large labyrinth of little cells in a huge warehouse like building. One is incessantly badgered by individual craft and trinket sellers and must get used to the "non merci". I had many little conversations with people that were relatively friendly but one quickly gets a hardened attitude. Most of the group expanded through the building negotiating with Ablei's assistance. Whether or not I agree, we are very much encouraged to travel in small groups with someone from BU or WARC. My roommate, an anthropologist from Kennesaw State University, and I pretty much hung around outside the building, relaxing and chatting until I realized we couldn't see our group anymore. One young fellow recognized my minor concern and in English calmly told me they'd gone upstairs. I tell him he's a good man and he smiles broadly telling me I am an even better man. Very kind. We then entered the labyrinth and sorted out the location of the stairs. There are sewing machines and stacks of colorful fabric everywhere. Lots of people are popping out of little warrens in all directions. Bits of fabric litter the floor and people are engaging you on many levels...touting, smiling, conversing, questioning. As we wait, a young man walks up with a tattered folder and proceeds to open it and establish a conversation. He is a student from the somewhat independence minded Casamance region that is isolated a bit geographically from the North of Senegal by the country of The Gambia. He makes wonderful collages made of butterfly wings(I know it sounds horrible but wait for it....) glued with Baobab tree sap. We believe him when he says this is collected from dead butterflies/moths that mate and only live for a few days. I buy 2 of them----birds...a crane and some kind of bowerbird representation and my friend gets one of his own. Our group also descends upon us as he is leaving and he does very well suddenly---selling many collages. There is a slightly heartbreaking look of envy on the face of one of the young women hawking bead necklaces/bracelets. She's been tracking us for a while and I've been saying no. I quietly beckon her over and by an inexpensive little necklace of seemingly plastic beads. She smiles at me and says "Thank you father..."Another one of those moments when   I realize how old I really am. A half our later we are back on the street, returning to the hotel for something to eat. My roomie stops to buy a couple of Kola nuts on the street---we try them and are not impressed with the taste. Apparently they are some sort of digestif----something I seem to be in need of quite often most everywhere so we'll see.....

Dakar, beach

 

 

 

Fellas in Dakar, Senegal

 

Dakar, Senegal

 

 

 

Dakar, Senegal

 

 

 

Arrival, Dakar, Thursday 5/26

Arrived in Dakar around 9pm on Thursday evening. The immigration line was a bit illogical---3 different choices. Several of us got in a line that had only one crabby officer and noticed the line next to us moving faster. We all ducked under the rope and moved quicker. 3 Chinese fellows seemed to have issues and it was  mentioned that they were having issues getting Visas which recently were not required for many visitors(including Americans). I for some reason was the last person on the flight to clear immigration. My passport wouldn't register on their computer and my fingerprints didn't either. Eventually 3 officers let me through and I was promptly stopped by a supervisor who had to sign off on my suspicious self as well. Soon found my bag and walked out into the fresh air where our group was steered to a bus. Was basically the easiest airport exit I've had in a long time.

 

Yesterday was spent in orientation at Boston University. Not my favorite town, Boston, but BU has gone a long way toward rehabilitating that bias.

I am staying in a BU dorm. 12th floor. With four other fellas, all of them very nice----2 anthropologists and one professor of world religion. We all have our own room in a suite and there is a common area with TV(This has not yet been on---nice!)

Yesterday's training consisted of several irritating "icebreaker" routines. As if a bunch of adults with PHDs need to be badgered into talking to each other. Nevertheless, really good folks....funny, diverse, curious. We also had some preliminary "lectures" on the qualities of several Muslim Sufi sects in Senegal....and the unique cultural characteristics that may cause "moderation" as opposed to extremism.

Pizza for lunch. 6 pieces for me. Nice. An Asian fusion place called Noodles for dinner. I had a middling duck curry that to my chagrin had several chunks of eggplant.

After dinner, I took a walk of about 1/2 hour up the main thoroughfare. On my return I heard some voices and honking up ahead----as I approached there was a young woman wailing by the side of a bus stop, having just been ejected from a vehicle. Just as I headed over, a young burly, bearded fellow on a skateboard headed over to her. She had just been punched by a boyfriend, had no place to go, and was distraught. The young man reached over, hugged her, and told her that nobody should have to experience this. He was so kind, so empathetic. I'm going to put a hold on millennial selfishness comments for a while. She was worried the boyfriend would circle back around, but it seemed as if she was going to get off the street soon and was calming down. I stuttered a couple of things about calling the police, shelters etc., to no avail, and soon left the two young people to figure it out. Boston.

Today will be 8-9 hours of more of the same. Probably necessary and I will try to keep my "friendly Miguel" percolating.